Amiga hardware info, help and support with a focus (but not limited to) North American NTSC experiences. Open to all.
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oldbull

by oldbull posted Fri May 17, 2019 6:30 pm

I was trying to install the Individual Computers ACE2 chipmem upgrade, That requires installing an adapter under Gary. The IC puller slipped and now Gary has a slight scratch. I plugged the A500 back in and it still works.

I've chickened out on installing the ACE2 myself and the Kickstart 3.1.4. Those will just have to wait until I can make some local Amiga friends. Maybe I should put those items up for sale.

/defeated
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obitus1990
New Orleans, LA, USA

by obitus1990 posted Fri May 17, 2019 6:57 pm

If you pay the postage both ways, I'll install it for you, no cost. Send the motherboard only, in an ESD safe bag and pack it well. Send me a PM if interested.
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oldbull

by oldbull posted Fri May 17, 2019 7:58 pm

I just texted my nephew to let him know how his mom's old Amiga is doing and he offered to help. It's just a matter of waiting until the next family "thing" and bringing my stuff along. If he breaks the exact Amiga he grew up with, then I don't have to be the one to tell him I broke it. ;)
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obitus1990
New Orleans, LA, USA

by obitus1990 posted Fri May 17, 2019 8:24 pm

Tried to send you this in PM, but, it won't work. Since you are not comfortable in doing it yourself, I'll post this for everyone else's benefit:

--------------------------------
OK, let me walk you through it then. First, remove the motherboard from the case and also remove the bottom shielding. This will give you access to the underside of the agnus chip. There are two holes under the socket and you can use two unsharpened pencils to push the chip out of its socket, instead of using a PLCC puller from the topside. There is far less risk of damaging things by doing it in this fashion. Before you remove the Agnus, take a picture of its orientation in its socket. This is VERY important. On the actual IC, there is a DOT and on the motherboard, there is a big number 1. The dot MUST line up with this number 1 pin in the socket, or you'll damage everything when you re-insert the ACE.

To remove GARY, get yourself a PLASTIC SPUDGER TOOL identical to the one in this link (if you are not comfortable with or don't own a proper sized DIP IC puller):

https://repairpartsusa.com/nylon-black- ... gIWR_D_BwE

You can place the flat end between GARY and the socket, and slowly work it underneath the IC, side to side and pushing slowly forwards. Don't use a lot of force, as you will slip. Take your time and slowly pry GARY loose in this fashion. Some people use metal screwdrivers for this, but, I will tell you that many fail in their endeavor, slip, and cut a bunch of traces under the socket, leaving them with a now non-booting Amiga in need of trace repair.

As gary starts to lift in the socket, keep the spudger parallel to the socket -- don't angle it towards the board. As you work it forwards, the and the spudger gets further in between things, it will slowly lift things out of the socket. Be especially careful once you get to the last few pins, because if you slip, you'll bend or break them.

Now that everything has been removed, follow Jens reassembly instructions. MAKE NOTE OF PIN 1 on both the AGNUS and GARY (PIN ONE ON GARY IS THE SIDE WITH THE U-shaped indentation, and, the IC socket has this same pattern as well as the silkscreen on the board).

Hope this helps.
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oldbull

by oldbull posted Fri May 17, 2019 8:54 pm

Thank you, really obitus. An IC puller was one of the first things I bought back in January or so. I also got the other type of puller for square chips. I'll just wait for my nephew to be available. It took a few months to collect parts and find good rust repair weather for the RF shield. I can wait a while longer.

I blame Jens as much as I blame myself. If he hadn't "fake leaked" that email months ago, I would have ordered just the ACA500+ and been working my way through the NTSC titles in the amigalove library. :lol: Instead I panic bought the ACE2 because scary lawyers were going to shut him down.
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intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

by intric8 posted Fri May 17, 2019 9:04 pm

Tried to send you this in PM, but, it won't work.


What do you mean? What's going on with PM's? (Sorry this is off-topic, oldbull)
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obitus1990
New Orleans, LA, USA

by obitus1990 posted Sat May 18, 2019 5:13 am

intric8 wrote:
Tried to send you this in PM, but, it won't work.


What do you mean? What's going on with PM's? (Sorry this is off-topic, oldbull)


I tried to send him a PM and the board said “user is not accepting private messages” or “isn’t set up to receive pm” or something similar.
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obitus1990
New Orleans, LA, USA

by obitus1990 posted Sat May 18, 2019 5:17 am

Oldbull,

You mentioned restoring the RF shield from rust damage. Can you share your technique and materials?
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oldbull

by oldbull posted Sat May 18, 2019 7:57 am

My approach to rust repair was a mashup of things I read in various places around the internet and adapting to stuff I had on hand at home. Disclaimer: I am not trying to restore the factory finish.

Surface Prep

First: Douse the rusty spots with WD40 and let it soak for a few minutes.

Second: Scrub with a copper mesh scourer. The browned WD40 will carry away a layer of rust.

Third: When your arms get tired, wipe with a paper towel so you can see the progress.

Fourth: Repeat the first three steps until satisfied with the amount of rust removed. You don't need to get it all.

Paint

First: Wipe dry the surface of the RF shield as best you can.

Second: Go buy high temp rustoleum in the color of your choice. The surface should be dry when you get back.

Third: Hit the (former) rust areas with the rustoleum. We all know how to use spray cans. I needed two coats.

Fourth: Let dry outside or in the garage overnight so the house doesn't stink of paint when you bring the RF shield back inside.
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