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intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Sat Jun 02, 2018 1:08 pm

I've had to move donor feet over on my A1000 before - the odd pill-shaped black ones that go underneath the A1000 case. Occasionally a machine will arrive where one of those is missing.

Your machine is looking and sounding better and better!

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primitivefunction

Posted Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:54 pm

Weekend update:

So being unable to repair the mouse that came with this machine I decided I would swap out its insides with those of another working mouse. Apparently though, not all A1000 tank mice are created equal, even if they are visually identical on the outside! I’ve discovered that I have 2 of the rev.1 type and one rev.2 type mouse (the shell is marked inside with a number). Subtle differences with the shell moulding and the screw posts on the board between revisions make it impossible to swap boards between them. That’s a rev.1 top right and bottom left (sorry, the photo is a little confusing) - notice how one of the screw support posts is different. It all turned out okay in the end as I could swap parts between my two rev.1 mice.
A1000_mice.jpg
And speaking of differences, here are two slightly different keyboard cords that came with different 1000s. That’s from the earlier model on the left. intric8 pointed out that the larger coils can be caused by the cord being stretched out over time.
A1000_kbcords.jpg

User avatar
primitivefunction

Posted Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:59 pm

Finally, here’s a glamour shot of the new machine all set up and looking pretty. Couldn’t be happier with this one - it’s a dream to use. Once I get a bit of extra RAM in there I’ll be in A1000 nirvana!
A1000_marbl.jpg

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intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Sat Jun 09, 2018 10:40 pm

My god. It's full of stars...

That glamour shot is GORGEOUS. That's pure Amiga 1000 porn. LOVE <3 <3 <3

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A10001986
1986

Posted Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:06 pm

You can restore the keyboard cable to its original condition (just the shape, not the color, of course) by tightly wrapping it around the handle of a wooden spoon (whose handle has a suitable diameter; I fixed the cable ends with tape) and putting into an oven for no more than 20 mins at 70 deg C / 150 deg F. Important: Leave if on the spoon until it has cooled down completely! Removing it too early means doing it again...

As good as new. Did that successfully with two A1000 cables as well as a bunch of A3000 cables.

User avatar
intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:35 am

@primitivefuntion, I posted your pic on Twitter and it's safe to say it was very well received. The lighting and object placements are just so good.

@A10001986 that is an extremely clever solution for the cord. My personal issue with a couple of the cords in my possession is how they've changed color. The color of primitivefunctions loosened cord is what I'm talking about. Luckily the vast majority of the cord is under the machine never to really be seen (which does make you wonder how they received so much UV light over the years to begin with).

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intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:38 am

@primitivefunction and yes, there are indeed several variations of tanks. I've run across at least three different internals. And that's not including the "imposter" tank that was intended for 8-bit Commodores the 1351. At least that mouse has a different plug so you can spot it.

User avatar
primitivefunction

Posted Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:30 am

intric8 wrote:My god. It's full of stars...

That glamour shot is GORGEOUS. That's pure Amiga 1000 porn. LOVE <3 <3 <3
Haha, thanks. :)
Yes, I thought she deserved to be seen in her best light.
intric8 wrote:@primitivefuntion, I posted your pic on Twitter and it's safe to say it was very well received. The lighting and object placements are just so good.
Thanks for that. Just checking out your twitter stream now - even more AmigaLove goodness! Congrats on the presentation BTW - can’t wait to see the vid for that.
intric8 wrote:@primitivefunction and yes, there are indeed several variations of tanks. I've run across at least three different internals. And that's not including the "imposter" tank that was intended for 8-bit Commodores the 1351. At least that mouse has a different plug so you can spot it.
Yes, i knew there were different revisions of the regular tanks, but I didn’t realise there were differences even between A1000 tanks. At least its good to know the C= engineers were constantly improving on their designs. I picked up an A3000 ‘pregnant’ mouse not long ago which is another interesting one - it feels very small in the hand and takes a bit of getting used to but I think I’m liking it.
A10001986 wrote:You can restore the keyboard cable to its original condition (just the shape, not the color, of course) by tightly wrapping it around the handle of a wooden spoon (whose handle has a suitable diameter; I fixed the cable ends with tape) and putting into an oven for no more than 20 mins at 70 deg C / 150 deg F. Important: Leave if on the spoon until it has cooled down completely! Removing it too early means doing it again...
Brilliant tip. I’m going to have to try that!

I tend to feel the slightly brownish colour is how it came out the factory, being that the colour is consistent end to end. Would have thought UV exposure would only affect certain parts of the cord, but who knows!

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mattsoft

Posted Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:44 am

Cool monitor. What model is that?

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primitivefunction

Posted Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:03 am

It’s a Philips CM17029. I believe it’s basically the same as an early model 1084 just with a Philips bezel. It’s a very capable 15kHz screen with a very crisp RGB display. And it has a SCART input!





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