"8-Bitters" were connecting to them, having virtually "off the grid" discussions and playing games outside the watchful eye of Google and the rest of the internet. I wanted to connect to them, too.
Back in the day (BITD), people connected via modems over telephone lines. But these days most folks I know don’t even have land lines anymore.
- Matthew Broderick showing of his awesome modem-connected computer to Ally Sheedy in "War Games"
The C64 specifically has an extension port called the User Port which, via an adapter, can communicate over RS-232 serial. It is through the C64’s User Port where the magic happens. These devices allow users to “call” BBSes, which amount to telnet sessions these days. But other than the odd “boinks-boink!” sounds, the rest is as real as it gets.
Part 1: Getting the Commodore 64 Online via Wi-Fi Modem
When it comes to Commodore Wi-Fi capable modems, there are two popular options right now that one can buy and start using immediately.
The least expensive options is called the WiModem. The advantage of this option is first and foremost it’s relatively low price of $55 plus shipping, depending on where in the world you live.
- WiModem
The second option is the Wi-Fi Modem (a.k.a. Schema modem), designed and built by Leif Bloomquist (@schemafactor) in Toronto, Canada.
The cost of the Schema Modem is $150, plus $20 for the USB programmer dongle and flat rate $10 shipping worldwide. It also comes with some little plastic legs (standoffs) that you can pop into holes in the card to give it more stability when plugged into the Userport when not used with a plastic case. More on cases later.
“The Commodore Wi-Fi Modem is built around two main components: The Arduino-compatible MicroView with built-in OLED screen, and the Roving Networks RN-XV or “Wifly” wireless module. These give you significant flexibility to use it as a straight-forward wireless solution for your Commodore, with optional expandability for standalone use or as a platform for interfacing to the outside world.“
- The various parts of the Schema Modem.
- Pros and cons, by the awesome Alterus (sysop of Centronian BBS, posting on Particles)
Next, you need to do an initial configuration of the modem and get it onto your wireless network. The OLED is extremely helpful in this regard.
Turn off your machine, plug in the card, and turn your machine back on.
“You should see some diagnostic messages on the OLED screen, and flashing green and red LEDs. The flashing red LED indicates an error, but this is normal on first powerup as the SSID has not been set yet. “
Now, it goes without saying that you will need to have an original terminal program or a way to read a disk image of a terminal program (e.g the Ultimate ii card, etc.). Assuming you do you have or can download and use a terminal program, load it up and run it. For me, I use CCGMS V2.0 Elite (CCGMS is still being actively developed, amazingly). It is very simple and gets the job done. Others prefer NovaTerm, but I find it to be way too much software (i.e. full featured, and slow) for my needs.
By default, the modem is configured with the following parameters: 2400 Baud, No Parity, 1 Stop Bit and Flow Control: None
From the WIFi User Manual:
Note: In CCGMS, I found that I also needed to go into the main menu’s Dialer/Params (F7) and change the BAUD to match there, too (e.g. 2400). This seemed to reduce problems greatly.1. Once in Terminal mode, press ENTER or the Reset MicroView button on the Modem to bring up the Menu.
2. Select option 4. Configuration Menu.
3. Select option 2. Set SSID.
4. Follow the prompts. For WEP mode, you’ll need the 26-digit WEP Key set on your WLAN Access Point. For WPA or WPA2, you’ll need your WLAN’s passphrase.
5. The SSID is automatically saved into the RN-XV and will persist. To change the SSID, follow this procedure again.
6. The default configuration is to obtain an IP address automatically via DHCP. To change this, refer to the User’s Guide.
At this stage you should see your LED lights showing green. If you have a red light after the config process, something is amiss and you’ll need to check your settings.
A yellow LED represents the transfer of data.
And that’s it! That’s all you need to get your C64 rocking’ and boppin’ like the old days (minus the pirating, credits, and status crap).
It’s worth noting that there are BBSes out there that display in 40 column mode as well as 80 column. The C64 is a 40 column machine, and BBSes that display that natively make for a very nice experience.
Centronian BBS
centronian.servebeer.com:6400 (6400 is the port) is an Ivorymod BBS based out of B.C. Canada, and runs off a real C64. It’s a relatively small but active group.
Particles BBS
particlesbbs.dyndns.org:6400
Particles has been around since 1992 and is a very full-featured BBS. It has a lot of forum options, and even includes some fun multiplayer PETSCII games.
Level 29
http://bbs.fozztexx.com/
This board is in 80 column mode, so if you “call” you’ll want to have the proper video capability or it won’t be awesome.
All of these BBSes also provide browser-based access so you can log in if you're at work and away from your C= or other 8-bit machine.
- Particles BBS
- Centronian BBS
For me, as for many others, BBSing is just so different and refreshing from most of the forums and social media offerings out there today. There is immediate respect given and found, focused topics and discussions, and a “quietness” that has become one of my own forms of “zen” and mediation and I catch up on the boards. And oh man, I really had nearly forgotten what it was like to really TYPE on the C64 keyboard!
If you decide to join one of the BBSes mentioned above, look me up - I’m ‘intric8’. See you around!
Part 2 (Optional): 3D Printed Enclosures
Before my Wi-Fi card arrived from Canada, I knew I was going to want to get a plastic case for it. I want my snazzy device to look like a real bonafide product, personally, not a plucked robot chicken. Luckily, there is a fabulous online shop that will 3D print cases for your C= Wi-Fi modems. There are multiple color choices, too, although a visual preview of the actual product would have been nice.
Also, 3D printed plastic parts are covered in a rather distracting texture. It’s the nature of how they are printed, but they aren’t exactly “pretty”.
- Fresh 3D printed enclosure for the Schema Wi-Fi Modem
The first step involves a lot of sanding and filling with either a plastic epoxy or filler compound. Warning: this stuff is nasty. Most have horrible fumes and should be handled with plenty of ventilation. The compound has to be pressed into the gaps all over the housing. I first sanded the housing for a few hours. I wasn’t going to put the thing in a show, so I cut a few corners (I should have never gotten the Wi-Fi symbol printed, as it just made this process worse). Next I went on the hunt for a cheap spray paint for plastics.
At first I thought I had hit an out-of-the-park home run with Krylon Colormaster “Cover Max” paint. The cap seemed to match perfectly. It didn’t.
Note: There are 3 main types of paint finishes to choose from: Glossy, Satin and Matte (or Flat). Satin is the closest type to match the original bread bin plastic, which was my personal goal. I’m not obsessive enough to have a custom paint mixed for me, but I am OCD enough to try 3-4 paints. I even researched modeling paint options, but the truth is that none of them got exactly the right hue either, and those paints cost quite a bit more than what you can find at the hardware store in the U.S.
After a few test sprays, I wound up going for an ultra-flat camouflage paint, with the plan to do separate clear satin spray finish when I felt I was done. That combo would get the color and texture as close to what I wanted for under $12.
The two paints were: Krylon Camouflage, Ultra-Flat, and [branding and name nightmare] Krylon / ColorMaster / CoverMax / Clear (Satin). I chose the Camouflage color since, well, Commodore is a military name, after all. I felt this got it closer to its roots even if the hue was slightly off.
- The paints used for the 3D case
- About 1/2 way through the sanding process trying to remove the bumpy texture and make the surface smooth
- Modem at work
